Thursday was forecast to be a sunny day further inland including in the mountains at Sulitjelma. I had to make the most of the day as the ongoing forecast is a bit uncertain and I may not get another chance for some good buttering.
I chose Sulis instead of Graddis in Junkerdalen because Sulis is 40 minutes less driving and has had far less historical coverage so the chance of finding something new is much higher (I dream of discovering new sites for Dusky-winged Fritillary (dvergperlemorvinge) and Arctic Grayling (tundraringvinge)). I awoke at 0430 with the disappointment of the previous night’s footy game fresh in my mind but felt energetic and excited with what the morning would bring.
On the way I stopped at Klungset to do some birding. As I noted last year something serious has happened here and numbers of Velvet Scoter are a fraction of what they used to be and I counted fewer than 100 in the whole area. A very distant male Surf Scoter was almost certainly the same as seen a month ago but I was unable to pick out the American White-winged Scoter also seen a month ago. Other good birds were King Eider, Great Northern Diver and Red-necked Grebe. Here are the two eBird checklists I made:
Up on the mountains the forecast cloudless skies were not evident and I had to wait patiently for the sun to come. I spent some time looking at the many alpine/arctic flowers that the area is famous for but my knowledge of plants is poor so I am reliant on taking photos and using AI to help me although I see there are often very similar species and often feel I can’t trust the answer I get well enough to register my sightings.
I am on firmer ground when it comes to butterfly ID and when the sun did shine then the butterflies flew. I had a period of around an hour when there were many individuals which would stop on flowers but as the morning drew on there were fewer to see and then they would often just zoom by.
Two of the special species of the area are Pale Arctic Clouded Yellow and Northern Clouded Yellow and I had many sightings with Northern being far commoner. I have always found these a challenge to photograph but this time did fairly well although the first mentioned remains difficult. I also got film of both species which allowed me to capture the upperwings which you otherwise never see. A couple of Moorland Clouded Yellows were also present (as I had noted last year) and the presence of all three species at the same site must be unique.
Norse Grayling, which was my first record here, and Alpine Grizzled Skipper were also special species. Fritillaries were very scarce and I had just three individuals of three species (Pearl-bordered, Small Pearl-bordered and Mountain) but nothing rarer.
The pictures are in no particular order
Northern Clouded Yellow (mjeltgulvinge) with a Scotch Burnett (fjelblodråpesvermer)
A video grab showing the uppering of a male Northern Clouded Yellow (mjeltgulvinge)
And Pale Arctic Clouded Yellow (polargulvinge)
Moorland Clouded Yellow (myrgulvinge)
An as usual out of focus picture of Pale Arctic CY
I did get to see it nectaring well if briefly
Norse Grayling (nornens ringvinge)
Alpine Grizzled Skipper (polarsmyger)
A fuzzy but rare shot of the upperwing of Norse Grayling
Another Pale Arctic Clouded Yellow. They are particularly green when seen like this
Northern CY
This moth would appear to be a rare Enthepria polata (polarbergmåler)
Looking west at 0840 when the sun came through
amongst the flower were these scarce Arnica angustifiola alpina (fjellsolblom)
And these already flowered Diapensia lapponica (fjellpryd)
Røvika at 0615
Selfie with a Northern Clouded Yellow. This was the first butterfly I saw which started to fly just before a big cloud covered the sun causing it to land again allowing close study
Looking south towards Junkerdalen at 1250 when I left
It was a joy to find two families of Curlews (storspove) close to the cabin with males keeping their eyes on broods of 2 and 3 nearly fully grown young.
Jr and I have fled the heatwave Oslo is experiencing and have left temperatures in the mid thirties and replaced them with the low tens. This has resulted in two days and 1300km of driving to our cabin near Bodø. The weather should improve whilst we are here but I am writing this sitting next to a radiator on full…
As usual I kept a count of raptors on the drive up and it was a meagre total with just 3 Kestrels, 2 Peregrines, 1 Merlin, 1 Rough-legged Buzzard and 2 White-tailed Eagles meaning about 1 raptor per 150km….
Three well planned Beast walking stops did result in some action for me. A stop in 30C heat gave me an Apollo butterfly which even briefly landed on my head although the battery on my camera proved to be flat so I had to resort to photos with my phone. In this photo you can see me taking a photo of the Apollo.
Jr is the shade whilst I am enjoying this Apollo:
Just before we got to the Arctic Circle a stop in Mo i Rana gave me to two additions to my Nordland county list - Jackdaw (kaie) and Nutcracker (nøttekråke). I have tried for them here before with no joy but finally succeeded. Both seem to have an isolated northerly breeding outpost here and the Nutcrackers are of the siberian subspecies so are different to the birds around Oslo.
Adult and juvenile Nutcracker (nøttekråke) of the race macrorhynchos
Here the parent has extracted a seed from a cone to give to junior
A stop at Saltfjellet on the Arctic Circle was very successful with Long-tailed Skua and Red-necked Phalarope. The skua was actively hunting at very close range but I am unsure as to what it was searching for as a lack of any raptors suggests no rodents.
Long-tailed Skua (fjelljo)
Red-necked Phalarope (svømmesnipe) male who by his behaviour must have had young nearby
What was only supposed to be a few days in Oslo before we headed north to the cabin in Bodø risks becoming many more days as poor weather up north and a football game on Saturday that deserves to be watched on the big screen at home delay are journey.
This has given me the chance to check up on my scarce (and late) breeders. This year we have not been as successful in finding nests, or even birds, as in previous years but I do have one nest to follow and I will of course publish a full update later in the season. If you want an idea as to what I am watching though then look at this absolutely amazing live feed from my old stomping grounds in Sussex.
Butterflies continue to deliver and I had my second ever Norwegian Purple Emperor (stor purpurkåpe) sat on a gravel track in the exact same place as I have previously seen a Poplar Admiral (ospesommerfugl). The Emperor was first seen in Norway as recently as 2019 after expanding rapidly through southern Sweden so it is no surprise that this was only my second sighting of the species and first in Oslo. The Poplar Admiral is a well established species which some people have no problem seeing but I have only ever had three sightings of ever.
Purple Emperor (stor purpurkåpe)
it has already been attacked by a bird and lost a bit of its right wing
Purple Emporers have become so "common" that you see videos now on social media where people have them on their shoes or clothes. I thought this one would be equally as confiding but it was of another persuasion but in the video at the end you do get to see the purple sheen.
a Silver-washed Fritillary (keiserkåpe) and an Arran Brown (fløyelsringvinge)
A week in Beitostølen and the nearby mountains has been a nice family holiday but very uneventful on both the bird and butterfly front. Chilly weather with only occasional sun which was nearly always accompanied by lots of wind did it for the butterflies and the complete lack of rodents (vole and lemmings) meant no food for raptors and a single Kestrel was the only one I saw!
I made an effort to see butterflies whenever the sun shone but numbers were generally low and a few species that I would normally see such as Mountain Fritillary (fjellperlemorvinge) and Silver-spotted Skipper (kommasmyger) were absent which I believe is just a timing issue and a visit in a couple of weeks would hopefully see them flying. I did see a single male Purple-edged Copper (purpurgullvinge) though and as this is my favourite species and one I barely see annually I have to be happy with that.
I did not make an attempt to see lekking Great Snipe and 2026 with a combination of either bad weather or watching the footie on the TV being my excuses.
Male Purple-edged Copper (purpurgullvinge)
Moorland Clouded Yellow (myrgulvinge)
And my only digital bird memories and these two short videos:
Stage 2 of summer hols 2026 is as usual in Beitostølen. We have escaped the hot weather but maybe a bit too much with rain and cloud threatening to put an end to buttering before it begins.
On the first morning I awoke at 4am and decided to head for Valdresflye. Dotterel, Shore Larks and Long-tailed Ducks were a treat but it is not a lemming year and I did not see a single raptor or Lt Skua although there has been the odd sighting of some wandering skuas in the last few weeks.
Female Dotterel (boltit). A few females were flying around «singing» perhaps in the hope of finding a male that was looking to nest again after a failed first attempt
Valdresflye looking west on 1 July at 05:21. Not much snow this summer
Shore Larks (fjellerke) were the most numerous passerine. This bird was collecting food for young whilst others were singing
Heading further north to one of my favourite buttering sites I was treated to some fantastic views but my hope of enough sun to have some butterfly action were dashed but I did find a few Alpine Argus (fjellblåvinge) sleeping on flowers which was perhaps even nicer than watching them flying around. This is one of my favourite butterflies and does not get the attention I think it deserves.
Views looking east over Øvre Sjodalsvatnet at 06:10
A sleeping Alpine Argus (fjellblåvinge). It was early (06:30), chilly (10C) and cloudy so no wonder it wasn’t flying
Yellow Wagtails (gulerle) seemed to be having a good breeding season with lots of alarm calling adults and birds with beaks full of food
There was some blue sky but any sunshine only lasted a few minutes
The only other butterfly I found sleeping were a few Small Heaths (engringvinge)
Birding surprise of the day was hearing a Quail (vaktel) singing from these fields at 900m alltitude
There are always lots of Sand Martins (sandsvale) at the butterfly site. I have never worked out where they nest but think it may be amongst the rocks that form the foundations for some old farm buildings
