I travelled for four days to Finnmark with Bjørn Olav Tveit at a time when traditionally there
is little coverage and we hoped to find some rare gulls (thinking Thayer's,
Ross's, Ivory, Glaucous Winged etc). We feared that the weather would be
atrocious but in the end we had mostly great weather, it was cold (-2C) but
there was little wind and mostly blue skies although on the last day there were
occasional snow storms. The days were long with over 12 hours of daylight
although if it was cloudy the afternoon light was not too good. We were in the
field from around dawn every day (5am) and birded for 4 or 5 hours before
breakfast and then were out until dusk.
Bird wise
we did not score the big rarity that we had hoped for but we did have fun going
through the gulls and playing with tricky identification challenges concerning
hybrids and subspecies. We also had outstanding views of Steller's Eider and
Hawk Owl which are way up there amongst my favourite species.
Itinerary
Thursday
22 March 2012.
Flew Oslo
to Kirkenes. Collected hire car and drove the 240km to Vardø although after
Vadsø it was too dark for birding. Spent time particularly at Munkefjorden,
Nesseby, Vestre Jakobselv and Vadsø. Spent the night in a self catering room in
a private house in Vardø.
Munkefjord |
Friday 23
March 2012
Based in
Vardø we birded Vardø island, Svartnes, Kiberg and all the bays to Vadsø
including those at Ekkerøy. Spent the night again in Vardø
Harbour breakwater in Vardø, with Bjørn Olav. Hornøya is to the left in the distance |
Hornøya from a little over 1km. Note the swarms of birds flying around the cliffs |
Saturday
24 March
Followed
the same route as yesterday although we spent a lot more time at Svartnes
looking at the gulls which came to bathe in the fresh water stream here and
finished the day in Vadsø. Stayed at the Rica Hotel in Vadsø and ate at what is
reputedly the world’s northernmost curry house.
The interior was still snow decked |
Vardø harbour with the Hurtigruta Ship in town |
Sunday 25
March
Before
breakfast we birded east of Vadsø as far as Skallelv. After breakfast we drove west, stopping at Vestre Jakobselv and
Nesseby. We had intended to drive to Pasvik but saw that time was against us so
went to Tana Bru and the Tana valley instead. On the drive to Kirkenes airport
we checked out Munkefjord again.
Nesseby Church |
Species
List with both English and Norwegian names
White-billed Diver (Gulnebblom)
6 birds
seen in total, 4 singles and two together. All sightings were in bays between Kramvik
and Ekkerøy a stretch of about 40km. None of the birds were in summer plumage and
were most likely 2K.
Black-throated Diver (Storlom)
2 birds seen
alongside White-billed Divers
Red-throated
Diver (Smålom)
2 birds seen
alongside White-billed Divers
Cormorant (Storskarv)
Odd birds
seen including a tight resting flock of 30 that could well have been newly
arrived migrants.
Shag
(Toppskarv)
Common around Vardø
Greylag
Goose (Grågås)
A single
bird at Kiberg
Mallard (Stokkand)
Given the
time of the year surprisingly widespread in shallow bays.
Common Scoter (Svartand)
A number
of small flocks between Vardø and Vadsø.
Velvet Scoter (Sjøorre)
Seen
regularly in small numbers (never more than 4 together)
Common Goldeneye (Kvinand)
A single
bird in Munkefjorden
Long-tailed Duck (Havelle)
Common
with flocks of upto 100
Red-breasted Merganser (Siland)
Seen
regularly in small numbers
Common Eider (Ærfugl)
Very
common with many flocks/gatherings of 100+ birds. In Vardø harbour we also had
a small number of birds with obvious “sails” indicative of the Svalbard/Iceland
race Borealis including one male with a very distinct yellow bill.
Common Eiders in Vardø Harbour |
"Northern" Common Eider ssp Borealis. Note "sails" |
"Northern" Common Eider ssp Borealis, note yellow bill |
Common Eider flock with male King Eider (right-hand side) and hybird (8th bird from left) |
Steller’s
Eider (Stellerand)
A few
birds at Nesseby and then very common from Vadsø to Vardø. On the 23rd
we counted all the birds we saw and had in excess of 1200.
Steller's Eider Kiberg |
Steller's Eider Kiberg |
King Eider
(Praktærfugl)
Seen
regularly in small numbers in both Munkefjorden and Varangerfjorden but at
Vardø there were a couple of flocks in excess of 1000 birds. An interesting
hybrid seen at Krampeness which was far closer to Common Eider than pictures I
have seen of other hybrids which could indicate it being a second generation, i,e
Common Eider x (Common x King Eider).
Hybrid (possible second generation) Common x King Eider |
King Eider pair |
White-tailed Eagle (Havørn)
Surprisingly
scarce with only a handful of birds seen – far fewer than in May 2011
Sparrowhawk (Spurvehauk)
One in
Tana Bru
Purple Sandpiper (Fjæreplytt)
Seen
along all coast, both on rocky coasts and feeding in muddy bays.
Black-headed Gull (Hettemåke)
Two
adults in Vadsø – early birds
Common
Gull (Fiskemåke)
An adult
and 2k in Vadsø harbour, the 2k was well seen and showed characters of the
Russian subspecies Heinei. Two adults at Svartnes, one of which was ringed and
showed features of Heinei including a pale eye.
2k Common Gull presumed ssp Heinei |
Adult Common Gull presumed ssp Heinei |
Herring
Gull (Gråmåke)
Common
but not as numerous as we had expected probably because there were no
significant presence of fishing boats in any of the harbours. Many of the
adults of had very little black on the wing tips.
Great Black-backed Gull
(Svartbak)
Widespread
in small numbers
Glaucous Gull (Polarmåke)
Only seen
around Vardø. Not as many as I had expected but at least 50 birds, the majority
of which were adults although we did have all ages classes. Two birds (a 2nd winter and a 3rd
winter) were good candidates for hybrids with Herring Gull.
Iceland
Gull (Grønlandsmåke)
Just two
adults, one at Svartnes and one at Kiberg. Both very small so probably females. Given the record influx into northern europe this winter we had expected large numbers of Iceland Gulls and had hoped they would bring far more exciting gulls with them.
Kittikwake
(Krykkje)
Already
back on the breeding cliffs at Hornøya. Many (tens of) thousands
Kittiwakes nesting on buildings in Vardø |
Hawk Owl
(Haukugle)
Puffin
(Lunde)
Small
numbers already back around Hornøya
Razorbill
(Alke)
A single
bird seen from Vardø looking towards Hornøya
Guillemot
(Lomvi)
Many
thousands around Hornøya and Vardø.
Brunnich’s
Guillemot (Polarlomvi)
Ca. 1% of
guillemots that we were able to identify were Brunnich’s
Black
Guillemot (Teist)
Seen
regularly in ones or twos
Rock
Pipit (Skjærpiplerke)
A single
early bird heard overflying Vardø
Great Tit (Kjøttmeis)
Birds
seen in Vestre Jacobselv
Willow Tit (Granmeis)
One seen
Vestre Jakobselv
Raven (Ravn)
Widespread
Carrion Crow (Kråke)
Widespread
Magpie (Skjære)
Widespread
including birds seen far from nearest trees of habitation
Greenfinch (Grønnfink)
Seen/heard
many places including Vardø
Arctic Redpoll (Polarsisik)
House Sparrow (Gråspurv)
Surprisingly
widespread and numerous wherever there were houses
Mammals
Common Seal (Steinkobbe)
At least two seen
Grey Seal (Havert)
Bearded Seal (Storkobbe)
Porpoise (Nise)
Ca. 100
seen in Kvalnesbukta
Red Fox (Rødrev)
Thank you for this wonderful post!
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